Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - October 1906 The Delineator

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - October 1906 The Delineator Fig 1 - Pointille crepe meteore is prettily trimmed with Irish and Mechlin lace and panne velvet in this portrayal of tucked costume No. 9558. Fig 2 - Narrow and wide braid, cluny lace and embroidered mull afford relief for this attractive dress, the waist of which is No. 9569 and the skirt No. 9528. 9558 - Ladies Tucked Costume, in Medium Sweep or Round Length; consisting of a Blouse-Waist, with High or Open Neck and Full-Length or Shorter Sleeves; and a Skirt formed of a Five-Gored Upper Part Lengthened by Two Straight Flounces. Gowns having horizontal trimming are particularly becoming to tall women and the illustrations here show a graceful design. One make-up represents nun's-veiling with Irish point and repousse, another is of point d'esprit with guipure and Valenciennes, and the third is of embroidered voile with Venise lace. A fitted lining supports the blouse the lower part of which is tucked en bayadere. The top is cut out in a novel fashion to accomodate a chemisette bearing a standing collar in plain or pointed outline, or to form a becoming effect for the open neck. The puff sleeves are finished above the elbow unless the lining is faced in band effect, or covered with lace to the wrist. The upper part of the skirt consists of five gores having a groups of tucks along the joining of the gown, thereby obtaining the desirable close adjustment about the hips. The lower edge is tucked, and lengthened by two gathered flounces similarly tucked. The skirt is in medium sweep or round length and the lower edge measures about five yards and three-fourths in the medium sizes. A broad girdle of silk or ribbon is worn. 9569 - Ladies' Waist, with High or Open Neck and Full-Length or Shorter Sleeves. The design here shown is suitable for a separate waist or as part of a costume. French veiling with Venise lace, and Pompadour silk with contrasting material having buttonholed edges, and Cluny lace were used in making. The bodice is mounted on a lining, and the fronts have a group of lingerie tucks to yoke depth. The slight fulness at the waist-line is controlled by gathers, and a wide double or single collar curves upward at the back and follows the front edges. A full vest portion, usually of chiffon or some soft material, fills in the space between the fronts and is attached to a round yoke. A standing collar affords neck completion, unless an open effect is preferred. The full length sleeves are plainly developed, or faced with the lace in gauntlet style below fancy reversed cuffs, or the lower part is cut off for short length. A soft girdle is a suitable accessory. 9528 - Ladies' Nine-Gored Skirt, in Long or Medium Sweep or Round Length, with an Inverted Plait or in Habit Style at the Back, and with or without the Girdle, the Front-Gore Extension or Trimming Folds. The many-gored skirts are still in favor and a modish skirt of this type is here illustrated in broadcloth, in hard finihsed worsted, and also in English suiting, each being strictly tailored. Nine gores, shaped to give an easy fit over the hips without being tight, are used in the construction. Each gore is quite narrow at the top and slopes gracefully to the lower edge, which measures about five yards and one-fourth in the medium sizes. An inverted plait is arranged at the back unless the habit style is preferred. When the girdle finish is given, the front-gore is extended above it in tab effect, ornamental buttons at each side marking the joining of the girdle and gore extensions; the latter may be cut off for the regulation waist finish. Milliners' folds of the material cut bias are arranged in pairs at the bottom of the skirt, unless a plain finish is desired. Provision is made for a long or medium sweep or round length. Suitable development may be had in serge, prunella, poplin, henrietta, self-colored striped suitings, mannish effects in checks, and unobtrusive formations carrying checks and broken plaids; self-colored jacquard foulard and taffeta, as well as the latter in Pompadour designs.

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