Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - June 1903 The Delineator

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - June 1903 The Delineator

Styles for the Month
Descriptins of Ladies' Figures

Figure 193H - Ladies' Shirt-Waist Costume
The costume of one material is far in advance of the odd shirt-waist and skirt, in feminine favor, and some exquisite modes are offered. The one at this figure is pictured in white pique, smartly contrasted with red linen, which supplies a striking background for the antique lace insertion. A sailor collar finishes the open neck of the shirt-waist, and a removable shield of antique all-over is topped by a standing collar of insertion. The shirt-waist is plain at the back, gathers regulating the fulness at the waist-line, and the front pouches modishly, a duchess closing being used. Full-length bishop sleeves are completed by wristbands of the red linen covered with lace. A red silk tie and linen belt are added.

The skirt falls gracefully in a medium sweep, five gores being employed in its construction, and a graduated, circular flounce, headed by a band of lace over red, increases the flare at the lower edge. An inverted box-plait is formed at the back, and provision is also made for dip or round length.

Hand embroidery would be effectve on the sailor collar, shield and wristbands of a brown linen costume, and might also appear on the skirt, heading the flounce. Bands of Persian embroidery may be used on white serge or canvas. Knickerbocker and novelty linen suitings, gingham, chambray, plumetis and mercerized materials are adapted to the design.

Figure 194H - Ladies' Shirt-Waist and Skirt
Hand embroidery adorns the toilette exhibited at this figure in brown linen. The skirt is of five-gored formation, with backward-turning tucks at the sides stitched to flounce depth, and the front-gore extending in a yoke with habit back. An inverted box-plait is arranged below the yoke, and the skirt shows the fashionable dip at the back, but may be shortened to round or instep length.

The embroidered design is repeated in the shirt-waist, which is in double-breasted style, two tucks at each side adding to the decoratve effect, and the back is also tucked. A narrow band finishes the neck and supports the collar, a fold of ecru linen at the top provides becoming contrast. Embroidery also ornaments the wristbands which complete the bishop sleeves. Brown ribbon affords an attractive waist finish and is simply knotted at the left side.

Linen in white or colors is especially appropriate for embroidering, and hand-work in shaded tones is effective. Summer-weight broadcloth would be handsome with a braided design in place of the embroidery and the pattern for both shirt-waist and skirt might be used for plain gingham, batiste, lawn, chambray, taffeta, Louisine, peau de soie, peau de crepe and light cloths.

Edwardian Era Ladies' Corsets - 1902-3 Fall & Winter Chas. A. Stevens & Bros. Catalog

Edwardian Era Ladies' Corsets - 1902-3 Fall & Winter Chas. A. Stevens & Bros. Catalog

Ladies' Corsets

Our Corset Department is the finest and best equipped in Chicago. Every good make is represented in addition to the many styles which are exclusively our own. Stevens' corsets, like every other garment which bears the name of Stevens, are correct in every detail - style, fit and workmanship. Every corset, no matter how low the price, must be up to the Stevens' standard to find a place in the department.

Sizes come 18 to 30 inches unless otherwise stated. When ordering give style, number and size wanted.

No. 2115 - Our Speacial La Vogue No. 2, made in white and drab coutil, in black sateen, bound with satin ribbon; also in white batiste, finished with soft fall of lace; sizes, 18 to 30. Price... $1.00

No. 2121 - A short hip corset for slight figures; sizes 18 to 26. Price... $1.00

No. 2124 - A ribbon corset, designed for slight figures; gives long tapered waist and increases bust and hip measurements from one to three inches; made of moire silk ribbon in white, pink, blue and black. Price... $3.50. In heavy satin ribbon, white, pink and blue. Price... $6.00

No. 2125 - A whalebone corset, made for full figures, long below the waist line and medium low above; made in white and black Roman cloth. Price... $5.00

No. 2128 - An extremely long garment below the waist line, and very low above. The acme of perfection, for very full figures; sizes 19 to 36; in white coutil. Price... $4.50

No. 2128B - Same style in black Italian cloth. Price... $5.00

No. 2132 - A maternity Abdominal Waist. Price... $2.00

No. 2135 - A Child's Waist, made of shirred muslin, finished with lace. Price... 50c

No. 2134 - Same as No. 2135, finished with embroidery edging. Price... 50c

No. 2134B - A Child's Waist of shirred muslin, in style No. 2135, plain; in sizes for a baby six months old to a child 14 years. Price... 25c

No. 2136 - A short hip nursing waist, made with either hook or button front; in white, drab or black. Price... $1.00

No. 2137 - Soft, washable waist, with abdominal lacings. Price... $1.25

No. 2133 - Same as style No. 2137, without abdominal lacings. Price... $1.00

Edwardian Era Men's Clothing - 1907 Spring-Summer Morse-Made Clothing Catalog

Edwardian Era Men's Clothing - 1907 Spring-Summer Morse-Made Clothing Catalog

Here are shown our "Regent" ($10 to $35) and "Winston" ($15 to $35) Sack Suits for men. Of the two the WInston is a little more extreme in its lines. It has the marked shaping of the back with a decided "spring" or flare at the hips. Both are notable for their careful shoulder and collar modelling. These suits are made both in the approved smooth and "unfinished" worsteds in tasteful stripe and check effects as well as the ever-correct plain grays, browns, and blacks.

Edwardian Fashion Plate - November 1902 The Delineator

Edwardian Fashion Plate - November 1902 The Delineator

Wedding Costumes

Fig 192G - Misses' Tucked Costume
Tucked effects are still much sought after, especially in pliable fabrics, and Louisine in robin's-egg blue trimmed in tucked white silk muslin and Luxeuil lace presents a charming result in this costume for a maid-of-honor or bridesmaid. The simplicity of the costume is a striking feature, the yoke waist being shown here with a Dutch square neck, with tucks arranged in front to shallow yoke depth and at the back, where it closes with buttons. The elbow sleeves may be replaced by short puffs or extended to full length.

A gathered flounce widens the skirt at the lower edge, which is tucked all around, in lengthwise effect to flounce depth. A sash and narrow folds of the material provide the finishing touch, and a five-gored foundation skirt is called into requisition.

Blush-pink muslin would unite prettily with Liberty silk and Chantilly lace. Panne ribbon is now used for sashes. Other adaptable fabrics are silk voile, crepe de Chine, and grenadine.

Fig 193G - Ladies' Waist and Skirt
Black peau de cygne, with stitched bands of taffeta and touches of Irish lace for decoration, achieved distinction in this mode, which includes a waist in drop-shoulder style, that gives the fashionable "1830" suggestion now a marked feature of exclusive designs. The puching fronts are shaped to disclose a chemisette headed by a standing collar, and the shoulders are dropped over the tops of the bishop sleeves, bands accentuating the "1830" effect. Deep facings simulate cuffs, and the back is slightly fulled at the waist-line, which is defined by a narrow strap-belt.

Frou-frou effects continue in vogue, and the skirt is constructed with this in view, being shaped with five gores closely adjusted to the knee. The back is in habit style.

Brown, in shades varying from Cafe au lait to wood and sombre tints of walnut, is restored to favor for street gowns, and lighter shades are permissible for more ceremonious occasions.

Fig 184G - Bridal Toilette
Conventional taste in bridal attire aims at simplicity and elegance of material rather than elaborateness. A charming type is depicted at this figure, in ivory satin Duchess decorated with Irish all-over and bandings, and sprays of orange blossoms. The tucked bodice, closing at the back, shows the fashionable drop-shoulder effect and is finished in high-necked style, although provision is made for a low outline. The elbow sleeves fall gracefully over full-length sleeves which may be omitted.

The sheath-like skirts are favorites, despite the claims of the new plaited designs. Of this order is the seven-gored mermaid skirt, so called because of its close adjustment above the knee, the flare below being increased by the addition of a circular flounce. The habit back may have a placket-and-seam closing or be buttoned, and a long sweep in this instance takes the place of the short sweep also supplied by the pattern. A round yoke may add style, and the fanciful disposition of the floral sprays and the folds in tuck effect is particularly pleasing.

Silk mull in alabaster white is a favorite for youthful brides, and old point or Honiton lace is inset for decoration, and for less pretentious effects, organdy, mull and China silk are selected.

Edwardian Fashion Chit Chat - March 1905 The Delineator

Edwardian Fashion Chit Chat - March 1905 The Delineator

Fashions in New York

As individualism in matters of dress becomes more pronounced, the boundary lines of fashion grow more and more vague. The French woman breathes in the spirit of the moment's fashion and expresses it in a hundred different versions suited to her particular demands, and the American woman - who was once a slave to Fashion's every whim - has likewise learned to appreciate her own charms and refuses to adopt unquestioningly every vagary in dress. Happily there are becoming styles for everybody in the present-day modes.

There are many unusually attractive designs for Spring, and chief among them is the shirt-waist dress. Both plain and fancy effects will be worn, the style depending entirely upon the occasion. All sorts of materials will be used to make these smart, practical dresses. For morning wear the silky mohairs in either plain or plaid effects are newest and at the same time most practical, while for the dress that is to have a touch of elaboration there are pretty silks, with taffeta in the lead.

There is nothing like a trim, becoming tailor-made for all-around use. In plain, lightweight cloth, with the skirt just escaping the ground, and jacket with gracefully shaped sleeves large enough to take in the blouse sleeves, such a suit may literally go from the shops to the drawing-room musicale. For the morning jaunt a tailored shirt-waist is worn with this costume, and a simple turban and heavy gloves complete the outfit. For afternoon, the same suit is accompanied by a dressy hat, light gloves, and a blouse either of pale-tinted silk or of the lingerie order.

There is infinite variety in the Spring coat. It ranges from the jaunty, abbreviated bolero to the graceful, enveloping redingote. There is still the blouse, which, like the bolero, refuses to die, and which in some of the newest garments preserves more than a suggestion of the pouch. Then there is the Directoire coat from the historic shape to a modern guise in which only the name preserves its classification. It is a significant fact that the Directoire coat, with all its possibilities for spectacular treatment, has not become common. The redingote is the garment of the moment. As a matter of fact, it is a garment not to be worn by every figure, or utilized for all occasions. It is fitted closely at the waist but gracefully ample of skirts. Until late in the Spring the velvet redingote will be worn.

Drape effects characterize the simplest shirt-waists as well as the dressy gowns; but these swathed bodices require skilful adjustment, and a well-fitted lining is essential. There is no disputing the fact that silks are to play an important role in Spring fashions. A satin finish makes them appear wonderfully soft, and they are light in weight. The same qualities in cashmere make the material particularly practicable for the draped waists and puffed sleeves, and the color card shows it in all of the season's shades.

The last cry in things fashionable is shaded leather, especially in the form of belts and stocks. All of the modish colors, rich reds, browns, bronzes and grays, are shown, each in all of its shades. These leather accessories are finished with buckles of hammered copper or silver and buttons to match are used.

The same handsome fabrics that are used to make the top garments of older persons are suitable for the small maid's coat, and, while the same designs are not employed, there is similarity in the long lines and the graceful fulness that characterize them. The softest cloth weaves, silk and pongee are suggested for the dressy little coat, while that intended for greater service may be made of heavy serge or cheviot. Even in these tiny wraps is the vest introduced, suggesting a harmonious combination of materials as well as of colors. The hats in lingerie style are much in evidence, and a new model is called the "Charlotte Corday."

The trousseau of the Spring bride is now being discussed and planned, and among the most interesting details of this outfit are the dainty negligee and lingerie garments. If the bride be clever and have the leisure, she will fashion them herself. There is a fascination in handling the delicate materials that enter into the construction of the pretty modes. The Empire styles are delightfully carried out in the soft silks and silk-and-wool fabrics, and the most effective house dresses and negligees. A deep cape collar or bertha, or perhaps a softly draped fichu, is a feature of some of these negligees, while puffing, shirring and tucking enter into the decoration.

The lounging robe to be worn only in one's boudoir may ba an attractive garment, though simplicity is essential to its comfort. The printed challies, Oriental crepes and silks, and plain colored woollens are used, and a ribbon sash can be added if desired. The graceful styles of the Orient are admirably suited to these negligees. The dressing sack, or matinee, when prettily made and of a becoming color, is a fascinating garment and may match in color the skirt with which it is to be worn. A lace collar that has long been laid away may find new use in adorning the dainty matinee.