Monday, May 9, 2011

Edwardian Fashion Plate - November 1902 The Delineator


Edwardian Fashion Plate - November 1902 The Delineator

Wedding Costumes

Fig 192G - Misses' Tucked Costume
Tucked effects are still much sought after, especially in pliable fabrics, and Louisine in robin's-egg blue trimmed in tucked white silk muslin and Luxeuil lace presents a charming result in this costume for a maid-of-honor or bridesmaid. The simplicity of the costume is a striking feature, the yoke waist being shown here with a Dutch square neck, with tucks arranged in front to shallow yoke depth and at the back, where it closes with buttons. The elbow sleeves may be replaced by short puffs or extended to full length.

A gathered flounce widens the skirt at the lower edge, which is tucked all around, in lengthwise effect to flounce depth. A sash and narrow folds of the material provide the finishing touch, and a five-gored foundation skirt is called into requisition.

Blush-pink muslin would unite prettily with Liberty silk and Chantilly lace. Panne ribbon is now used for sashes. Other adaptable fabrics are silk voile, crepe de Chine, and grenadine.

Fig 193G - Ladies' Waist and Skirt
Black peau de cygne, with stitched bands of taffeta and touches of Irish lace for decoration, achieved distinction in this mode, which includes a waist in drop-shoulder style, that gives the fashionable "1830" suggestion now a marked feature of exclusive designs. The puching fronts are shaped to disclose a chemisette headed by a standing collar, and the shoulders are dropped over the tops of the bishop sleeves, bands accentuating the "1830" effect. Deep facings simulate cuffs, and the back is slightly fulled at the waist-line, which is defined by a narrow strap-belt.

Frou-frou effects continue in vogue, and the skirt is constructed with this in view, being shaped with five gores closely adjusted to the knee. The back is in habit style.

Brown, in shades varying from Cafe au lait to wood and sombre tints of walnut, is restored to favor for street gowns, and lighter shades are permissible for more ceremonious occasions.

Fig 184G - Bridal Toilette
Conventional taste in bridal attire aims at simplicity and elegance of material rather than elaborateness. A charming type is depicted at this figure, in ivory satin Duchess decorated with Irish all-over and bandings, and sprays of orange blossoms. The tucked bodice, closing at the back, shows the fashionable drop-shoulder effect and is finished in high-necked style, although provision is made for a low outline. The elbow sleeves fall gracefully over full-length sleeves which may be omitted.

The sheath-like skirts are favorites, despite the claims of the new plaited designs. Of this order is the seven-gored mermaid skirt, so called because of its close adjustment above the knee, the flare below being increased by the addition of a circular flounce. The habit back may have a placket-and-seam closing or be buttoned, and a long sweep in this instance takes the place of the short sweep also supplied by the pattern. A round yoke may add style, and the fanciful disposition of the floral sprays and the folds in tuck effect is particularly pleasing.

Silk mull in alabaster white is a favorite for youthful brides, and old point or Honiton lace is inset for decoration, and for less pretentious effects, organdy, mull and China silk are selected.





1 comment:

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