Thursday, July 21, 2011

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - March 1905 The Delineator

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - March 1905 The Delineator

Fig 1 - Smoke-gray etamine is depicted in this combination of shirt-waist No. 8215 and skirt No. 8234, velvet affording simple but effective relief.

Fig 2 - Fashionable fulness characterizes this pretty shirt-waist costume (No. 8224) of crushed-rose cashmere, with all-over lace and passementerie.

8215 - Ladies' Tucked Shirt-Waist - A box-plait serves to conceal the closing whether at the front or back of this smart shirt-waist, the former being ornamented with narrow tucks to yoke depth and wider ones that extend from shoulder to lower edge. A body lining may give support, but such waists are often unlined. The back is to be eased or drawn down, as one may prefer, and the usual neck-band and standing collar are furnished. Large puffs form the upper part of the sleeves, and the lower part, shaped by one seam, fits the arm snugly in deep cuff style. China silk is associated with lace in the make-up.

This is a mode that will be widely copied in all the popular waistings, including louisine, taffeta, crepe de Chine, Burlingham silk, poplin, broadcloth, French flannel, serge, brilliantine, mercerized materials and many of the seasonable wash goods.

8234 - Ladies' Seven-Gored Skirt - Some of the prettiest of the season's skirts are made with tuck-plaits, and a smart design of seven-gored shaping is here illustrated in dark-green serge. Short round and instep lengths are provided for, as well as round length, the entire lower edge in the medium sizes attaining a measurement of about five yards. Tuck-plaits arranged to give a wide kilt effect may have the stitching terminate at yoke or flounce depth, with corresponding stitching along the creased edges if desired. A yoke in fancy outline is a desirable feature, but its use is optional.

Wool-brown broadcloth will make up attractively for wear with a coat of the same material. Zibeline, cheviot, tweed, voile, and cashmere may be used, and washable materials will also prove satisfactory.

8224 - Ladies' Shirt-Waist Costume - The surplice closing is a conspicuous feature of recent designs, and has the merit of being becoming to all figures. A shirt-waist costume in which this detail is noted is here illustrated in figured voile with lace and contrasting bands and girdle. The skirt is formed of seven gores, wide enough at the top to allow fulness which gathers control, and three bias folds or trimming bands of varying widths afford attractive ornamentation, though their use is not necessary. Medium sweep and round lengths are shown, and a measurement of about five yards is given the lower edge in the medium sizes. Both the eased and the drawn-down effects at the back of the shirt-waist are provided for, and slight fulness is allowed at the shoulders. The fronts are also gathered at the top and pouch becomingly. A narrow band supports the standing collar in high-neck style and a chemisette may be inserted. The pattern includes a body and sleeve linings, the latter supporting full puffs with or without a self frill, and faced to form deep cuffs, or cut off at long elbow depth.

A chemisette of tucked mousseline would be effective with a costume of lavender nun's-veiling. Cashmere, novelty goods, fancy and plain silks, mercerized materials of light weight, cotton and linen suitings are adaptable.

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