Monday, August 8, 2011

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - March 1905 The Delineator

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - March 1905 The Delineator

Fig 1 - This charming draped redingote, No. 8232, is associated with skirt No. 8258 - A new fifteen-gored ripple mode - in mauve broadcloth.

Fig 2 - A two-piece costume (No. 8238) with a draped blouse jacket is pleasingly portrayed at this figure in cinnamon-brown zibeline.

8232 - Ladies' Draped Coat or Redingote - Draped effects are stylish in all garments, including coats. A foundation body, consisting of seamed backs and darted fronts, is necessary to support the draped outer portions, fulness being introduced in the centre-back and under-arm seams and at the front edges. Buttons may appear at the closing or it may be invisibly fastened, a chemisette with standing collar being inserted when desired. The redingote skirt is seams at the centre of the back and gathered to the body, seven-eights and three-quarter lengths being given. The sleeves are in one-piece leg-o'-mutton style, with drooping fulness at the top or in shirred bishop style, made over two-seam linings, and cuffs in two styles are furnished.

The supple waves of cloth or velvet are used.

8258 - Ladies' Fifteen-Gored Skirt - The skirts that are full about the feet and fit closely over the hip are extremely graceful in appearance and are the height of fashion. Fifteen gores shape the one illustrated above and it is perfectly plain, an inverted box-plait taking up the back fulness, unless habit style is preferred. The rippled effect begins just below the hips and the lower edge attains a measurement of about five yards in the medium sizes. The mode is designated as the ripple or umbrella skirt. Round, short round, and instep lengths are provided for.

Oxford cravenette will give excellent service for wear with washable or silk shirt-waists and with a jacket or coat of the cravenette would provide an attractive suit. English tweed, serge, granite cloth, etamine, voile, etc., are used.

8238 - Ladies' Two-Piece Costume - The advance styles for Spring show a continuance of the lavish use of material which had been so noticeable of late. The draped blouse is the favorite whim of Fashion for the Spring walking costume, and it is very becoming to slender figures. The costume shows such a jacket, bloused or eased at the back, and with the fronts gathered at the waistline, a girdle belt affording a finish. A turn-down collar and tabs are supplied for neck decoration, but the stole encircling the neck and giving the effect of revers at the front is frequently used alone. Th silk foundation is faced in vest effect to the lower edge. The sleeves are composed of one-seam puff sections lengthened by deep cuffs that may be concealed by fancy cuffs, button trimmed.

Seven gores shape the skirt, the front one being laid in a box-plait at each side and extended to form a yoke, or, if preferred, left plain in panel effect, with the sides and back gathered or shirred at the top. Long and medium sweeps and round lengths are allowed, and the skirt is untrimmed, the entire lower edge with the plaited front gore measuring about five yards and one-half, and with plain front gore, about five yards. Castor velvet was used for illustration, with satin, button and Duchesse lace for relief, and also in drap d'ete.

The supple Spring fabrics are adpated to this mode, etamine, voile, canvas, kersey, broadcloth, crepe de Chine cloth and zibeline being among the best.

1 comment:

  1. I have a copy of The Delineator from December 1904. Unfortunately the cover is in really bad shape. It looks like it had been removed and them taped back together. The remaining pages are in very good shape with no tears. I also have one dated Sept. 1898. Is anyone interested?