Monday, March 7, 2011

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - March 1905 The Delineator

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - March 1905 The Delineator

#8216 Ladies' Costume in frou-frou or regulation medium sweep or round length: consisting of a waist in surplice effect, bloused or drawn down at the back, with full or three-quarter length sleeves, and with or without the tuxedo collar, suspenders or chemisette: and a tucked or gathered five-gored skirt, with or without the yoke. (Sometimes called the suspender costume.)
The costume of one material is the most popular form of house and visiting gown, and a pleasing design is pictured above in printed taffeta with a pearl=gray ground, in pale-tan eolienne, lace ribbon and buckles providing elaboration, and in reseda-green albatross. The surplice effect so much used is a prominent detail, the fulness being laid in plaits on the shoulder and puching prettily over the crush belt. The back is designed to be bloused or drawn down. Straps that cross at the back and front give it the name of the suspender costume, but these may be omitted. A Tuxedo collar is used if fancied to finish the neck, and a chemisette with standing collar is supplied, but not always used. A snugly fitted body lining affords support, and linings for the sleeves, in full or three-quarter length, are also provided.

Medium sweep or round length in frou-frou or regulation style may be given the skirt, which is of five-gored formation. The pattern gives directions for tucking or gathering it at the top, the front gore being left plain, and a yoke is supplied to vary the mode. In the medium sizes, the lower edge attains a measurement of about five yards and one-fourth.

Suspenders of Oriental banding will give a pretty effectto a costume of red voile.

#8242 Ladies' waist, closed at the back, draped by lengthwise cord or tuck shirrs, in high neck with or without the fancy pompadour yoke, or in open neck, with full-length or long elbow puff sleeves with or without epaulette extensions to the neck.

Some of the most pleasing designs in fancy waists show tuck or cord shirrings for ornamentation, and a pleasing example introducing this feature is pictured below in blue crepe de Chine associated with all-over lace, and also in gray eolienne with Oriental banding and lace sleeve frills. A close-fitting body-lining is used as a foundation for the draped back and fronts, in which the shirrings are made over cords or in tuck style. Shaping is accomplished by seams under the arms and on the shoulders, and individual taste may prefer the waist in high neck form with a standing collar, with Pompadour yoke, or in open-neck fashion. An invisible closing is made at the back. The full puff sleeves, which are mounted on two-seam linings bearing cuff facings or cut off for long elbow length, have epaulette extensions to the neck, but may be in regulation style. A crush girdle is added. Apple-green pineapple gauze over silk will make a charming waist, and should be worn with a skirt of the same fabric. Mousseline, chiffon, silk crepe, messlinette, Liberty satin, plain and figured nets, taffeta and veiling may be used with good results.

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