Edwardian Era Ladies' Mourning Dresses - March 1905 The Delineator
Styles in Mourning Attire
In fashioning mourning garments the same modish lines that characterize ordinary dress should be observed, with individual taste and needs the first items to be considered.
Soft, pliable materials such as henrietta, cashmere, cheviot, serge and eudora cloth - the last a fabric similar to henrietta - lend themselves charmingly to the present graceful styles. Frequently the only trimming employed is self folds, tucks or plaits, though crape folds and bands are used with smart effect.
The popularity of crape, both for trimming and making entire gowns, has increased, and those who follow Fashion closely will provide at least one crape gown for the mourning outfit. The crape now used has attained comparative prefection in finish and lightness of texture, and even the crape veil is no longer objectionable, though it is rarely worn over the face. A young woman, except a young widow, may wear a crape hat, or one of dull-finish silk trimmed with crape or silk folds or rosettes.
For the correct street costume, a light-weight dull-finished broadcloth or cheviot is the best choice, and it is made in two-piece style with coat and skirt. An accompanying shirt-waist or blouse may be made of dull-finished silk or of some of the soft woollens. Dull jet buttons give a pleasing finish, while at neck and wrists there should be fine white linen collar and cuffs, daintily hemstitched. The coat of this street costume may be in any becoming length, from the Eton or bolero to the three-quarter garment. The tailor skirt in comfortable walking length is the correct mode.
8133 - This smart shirt-waist costume is adaptable to both silk and wool goods. Wide tucks are its distinguishing feature. The shirt-waist may have a military or coat closing, and the five-gored skirt has tucks stitched to yoke or flounce depth.
8089 - Grace and beauty mark this tucked costme, which may be in any one of several lengths. The bodice may be made with high neck and chemisette or with round neck, and the sleeves in elbow or full length. The five-gored skirt is tucked vertically at the top and horizaontally around the bottom. A soft material is suggested for its development.
8158-8180 - This toilette will be especially becoming to slender women, and is developed in dull-finished silk combined with crape. The bodice is in surplice style, and has Tuxedo collar bands and a shaped girdle. The sleeves are puffed. The nine-gored skirt is rippled below the hips, and may be in round, short round or instep length. An inverted box-plait or habit back is provided.
8117-8174 - This is an extremely modish street toilette. The shirred blouse jacket may be made with regulation or revers front. The yoke gives a becoming long-shouldered effect. The four-gored skirt has tucks at each seam in inverted double box-plait effect.
8148 - A separate dressy waist is essential to the completeness of a correct mounring outfit, and the one here shown is especially atractive for development in a soft material associated with a contrasting one. The neck of this plaited surplice bodice is designed to be high or in Dutch pointed style, and elbow or full-length sleeves may be used. Tuxedo revers are added, but are not indispensable. This bodice may accompany a variety of skirts.
8169-8156 - The shirt-waist and skirt sombined in this toilette show the prevalence of tucks in the season's fashions The fronts of the shirt-waist are tucked, a box-plait effect resulting from the arrangement of the tucks at the centre. A plain back and bishop sleeves finished with narrow bands complete the mode, which is alike adapted to woollen, silk and wash fabrics. The skirt consists of a seven-gored upper portion tucked at each seam and lengthened by a gored side-plaited flounce. Round, short-round or instep length may be given.
8036-8132 - The simple effect of this toilette is its distinguishing characteristic. The tucked bodice closes at the left shoulder and side, and the neck may be high or in low round or Pompadour effect with or without the chemisette-yoke. Three-quarter or full length sleeves may be used. The skirt consists of a five-gored foundation and two shirred or gathered seven-gored flounces. Tucks are introduced at the edge of each flounce.
8048 - Another very pretty bodice is distinguished by a plaited bolero. A shallow pointed yoke may be added, and the sleeves are in short puff, elbow or full-length style. This bodice will be effective in a combination of materials.