Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Edwardian Era Millinery for Early Spring - March 1905 The Delineator
Seasonable New Hats -
1. Black lace and tulle, white ostrich plume, white rose and bud.
2. Mixed brown straw braid, brown breast, quills.
3. Pink tulle and taffeta, pale pink ostrich plume.
4. Light-tan chip straw, golden brown velvet and white wings.
5. Dark and light blue straw, dark blue velvet, shaded blue wings.
6. Ecru chip straw, white crepe de chine and brown quills.
Smart Effects for Street Wear -
1. White taffeta and black velvet, white ostrich tips.
2. Dark blue straw and velvet, pale blue coq plumes.
3. White and ecru straw, acorns, leaves and pink roses.
4. White straw, black velvet and white quills.
5. Pale blue straw, ecru lace medallions and black satin, finely plaited.
6. Brown and ecru straw, brown velvet and speckled brown breast.
Millinery for Early Spring
Whimsically upturned brims characterize the hats of the moment, some of which are unusually attractive. A Winter hat that can be worn until late Spring is of white felt with a wide, flaring brim that extends well over the face and is uplifted at one side. At the back the brim is clashed to the crown, and the edges of the slash are finished with wide binding of dahlia-colored velvet. The velvet crown is shirred very full in six consecutive rows, puffing high and full above the shirring. A steel and gilt buckle is placed at the back, and two shaded dahlia plumes under the uplifted brim are the only trimming. The same idea might be carried out in shades of brown for a hat to be worn with a brown costume.
Hats of the Colonial order remain favorites because of their general becomingness. The newest marquise has a small crown and a very wide brim that shows a point in front, from which the sides and back are raised in three or four regular godets to meet the crown.
The ostrich feather in its latest guise is manipulated into the flat shape of a quill and used in quill fashion to trim the smartest walking hats. A pearl-gray felt of "Dick Whittington" shape, with somewhat wider brim, has a narrow brim facing of cerise felt. At one side is a flat cerise ostrich feather, which is laid directly across the brim like a quill and nestles among cerise twists and roses.
The Spring colors in millinery are wonderfully attractive. That brilliant hues will be most favored is certain. Bright-colored headgear when worn with a harmonizing costume is vastly becoming, and the idea has an economical interest, since one hat may be made to do duty with several costumes. A pinkish mauve, which in the darker tones is closely allied to the Burgundy shades, is a modish Spring color. The new pinks and reds are on the rose and raspberry shades. While it is a little early to decide upon the headgear for Spring, there are shown tailor models in straw that will freshen up the mid-season's costume or provide the touch of completion to the new street suit. Both rough and fine, satiny straw braids are used to make these early-season hats, and all the fashionable colors are procurable. The mixed straws are especially pleasing - several shades of one color or contrasting colors being blended. Those combining dark blue, green, yellow, and red in a plaid weave are liked for youthful wearers. The hats are fashioned in a variety of shapes, and in almost every instance the only attempt at trimming is a shaded quill with straw bow or loops. The Continental is particularly stylish in this vari-colored straw, and there are many modifications of it.
Two shades of one color combine charmingly in straw hats. For example, light and dark green satin straw are united in a turban shape, the crown of the dark-colored straw and the rolled brim faced with alternate rows of the light and dark. At the left side two quills in shaded greens are thrust through the crown and the edge of the brim. The new raspberry red and Burgundy are adapted to this model, and brown in its several shadings suggests pleasing possibilities.
An imported Cavalier model for Spring is made of brown straw in which a thread of gold is woven. A wide band of brown velvet ribbon, over which is applied a narrow gold braid, encircles the crown and at the left side is formed into a huge gold-centred rosette that secures the rolling brim. The touch of gold lights up the sombre brown very effectively.
For the dressy hat that is to take the place of the velvet creation of the Winter, tulle or lace is used, and some very attractive models are shown. A charming hat fashioned of white tulle has the brim rolled high and loose and pressed in a notch at the left side; the brim is laid in an envelope fold at the right side of the back. The crown is formed of finely tucked tulle, which is tuck-shirred over the brim. At the left side of the back droops a wide and full white ostrich plume, and at the right of the front, set against the crown, rises a tuft of curling ostrich tips. Floral trimming may be used instead of the plumes.
In a dainty Cavalier hat recently imported pale-blue tulle was softly draped over the crown, and the brim was bordered with two rows of plaited ruching of the tulle. Two ostrich plumes shading to dark blue at the tip swept over the corwn and brim at the left side, while purple and pale-yellow pansies were massed over the right side of the brim, and came up over the brim near the front, where they secured the ends of the plumes.
A round hat for street wear is made of coarse deep ecru straw. The brim is faced in creamy satin straw, and wide cream satin ribbon formed into a shirred band encircles the crown; at the left side there are three rosettes of the ribbon. A soft coil of ribbon covers the bandeau. This model would be attractive in several shades of one color.
The Spring veils are charming, and lace veils are to be more fashionable than ever. Large patterns on a net or maline ground are more popular than bordered veils. Different-sized velvet pastilles characterize the veil for general wear. In some instances the pastilles offer a color contrast to the ground of the veil. Chenille-dotted fancy mesh veils are seen in all colors. Chiffon veils remain popular, and both plain and dotted effects are shown, and in the novelties shaded chiffon is much used.