Edwardian Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1901 The Delineator
Fashions of To-Day
Close adjustment about the hips and a wide flare around the bottom remain the distinguishing characteristics of the most approved skirts. A new mode, which may be made in one or two piece style, is of circular shaping with habit back and has a graduated circular flounce from beneath which the skirt may be cut away. It is especially desirable for plaided, striped or other fabrics to be made up with matched bias edges or cut on a lengthwise or cross-wise fold in front. The new dip may be given the top.
A five-gored skirt in in-step length with habit back is given a graceful flare arund the bottom by a graduated circular flounce; the skirt may be cut away from beneath. Corduroy and wool fabrics will develop admirably by the mode.
Short coats or jackets are particularly stylish when they are worn with a skirt of the same material, though they are fashionable made in melton, kersey or covert in some contrasting shade. An unusually smart design shows a close-fitting back and dart-fitted fronts that close in double-breasted style. The sleeves are in bell shape at the bottom. Another mode is in double-breasted style without the darts. Rows of machine-stitching will provide correct completion.
The closing at the back continued to characterize many of the newest shirt-waists or blouses. Clusters of tucks in yoke depth with two clusters extending to the waist on each side are the distinctive feature in the front of a pretty shirt-waist that is closed at the centre of the back: a cluster of tucks on each side of the closing is another pleasing item, and the bishop sleeves have three clsuters of tucks extending to within a short distance of the bottom, where they form a puff; wristbands give a neat finish. Soft silks and woolen fabrics are suitable for the development of the mode.
A tucked fancy collar is the distinctive feature of a new bodice that has a whole, smooth back and slightly bloused fronts opening over a vest. The upper portions of the sleeves are tucked in a lengthwise direction and may be in full-length or elbow style. An association of fabrics is suggested by this design.
A new two-piece costume adapted to smooth cloths as well as rough materials consists of a double-breasted jacket and a seven-gore flare skirt with habit back and a graduated circular flounce which may be omitted or from beneath which the skirt may be cut away. A velvet rolling collar and turn-back cuffs lend distinction to the mode, and machine-stitching provides a suitable finish.
A shirt-waist closing at the centre of the front has a whole back with slight fulness at the waist-line, and becomingly bloused fronts with three wide tucks arranged in yoke depth. Bishop sleeves completed with narrow strap-bands and a removable collar further characterize the mode, which is well adapted for developing light-weight broadcloth, corduroy and French flannel. Fancy braid and buttons may be used to trim or applique or Persian bands can be substituted.
A jaunty short jacket is distinguished by vest sections and dart-fitted fronts. Fancy vesting will combine well with either plain or novelty goods in this mode, and machine-stitching and bullet buttons may be used to decorate.
Norfolk effects in shirt-waists as well as jackets are one of the most important features of the season's styles. Norfolk plaits are laid on both the back and fronts of a smart shirt-waist having a front closing. The blouse-bishop sleeves are completed with cuffs having turn-overs. The stock, which is removable, is also given an attractive finish by turn-over sections.
Tucks that are stitched to form box-plaits individualize a stylish shirt-waist, which has the closing at the back. The blouse sleeves are tucked to correspond with the backs and front, and the removable collar is also tucked. Soft woolen fabrics and silks are alike appropriate for development by this design.
Sleeves in elbow length will continue in popular favor for evening or dressy house-gowns during the Winter, and a pleasing example may be completed with a straight or circular frill with decoration applied to suit the wearer.
A new corset-cover combining both attractiveness and utility, and designed especially for wear beneath waist that have the centre-back closing, has a full bloused front and smooth backs with the closing at the centre. The neck may be round or square, and the short puff sleeves used or not. The mode can be simple or elaborate, lace or embroidery providing the trimming.
Effective in developing soft woolen fabrics and dainty silks associated with all-over lace is a tea-gown that has the back and fronts tucked at the top in a slanting direction to yoke depth; it may be made with a high or V neck and full-length or elbow sleeves, and with or without the fancifully shaped bolero.