Thursday, November 1, 2012

Edwardian Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1901 The Delineator

Edwardian Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1901 The Delineator

Fashions of To-day

An innovation in skirt designs is termed the form-fitting or serpentine and is characterized by a very close adjustment to the knees - by means of an elastic strap at the back - below which there is a decided flare. An approved five-gored mode has a double box-plaited gore at the back and a rippled circular flounce extending to the plaited gore. The skirt should be cut away from beneath, and it may be in sweep or round length. This skirt is especially adapted to velvet, corduroy and smooth-faced cloths, and stitched bands of cloth or satin may be applied where the flounce is joined to the skirt.

Another attractive skirt is of circular shaping, with a narrow front panel and centre-back seam. A graduated circular flounce, from beneath which the skirt may be cut away, is a stylish feature. The mode may be in sweep or round length or in evening train; when the latter style is desired, soft silk-and-wool materials will be chosen, with embroidered bands, lace applique and deep lace points.

The centre-back closing remains popular in both fancy bodices and shirt-waists. A bodice with this feature has the bloused front cut low in fanciful outline to reveal a yoke of contrasting material; the smooth-fitting back is similarly shaped, and the sleeves carry out the same idea at the bottom, where they are cut out, displaying a full puff completed by a narrow wristband. Silk and velvet or silk with all-over lace or fancy tucking will combine well by the mode.

There is unusual grace in a bodice that may be made with high or low neck and full-length, elbow or short cap sleeves. A drapery of the same or some harmonizing material follows the outline of the low neck, or of the yoke if the neck is made high.

The neck finish to both fancy bodices and shirt-waists is most important. Some collars approved by Fashion are made with or without a centre-front seam and with the lower edge pointed in front and the upper edge to be either straight or in fanciful outline at the back. Velvet, all-over lace and tucking arranged to produce a bias effect are suitable for these collars.

A stylish two-piece costume consists of a double-breasted Eton blouse jacket having a standing collar, with or without a plain or fancy turnover, and a five-gored skirt with habit back. A graduated circular flounce, from which the skirt may be cut away, is added, and sweep or round neck is provided.

The habit back, which is again in high favor, characterizes a new seven-gored flare skirt which may be made with or without a graduated circular flounce from beneath which the material may be cut away. The new slanting dip is introduced and the skirt is adaptable for sweep or round length. Machine-stitched bands of the same or a contrasting material will provide suitable ornamentation when the design is carried out in rough or smooth-faced goods or in corduroy.

Two underfolded plaits extend from the shoulder seam to yoke depth in the fronts of a new shirt-waist especially suitable for developing flannel and other woollens. The closing is made under the overlapping scolloped front edge. The sleeves are in blouse-bishop style, completed with narrow wristbands. The standing collar, which is removable, is given a neat finish by turnovers in fanciful outline.

Every well-appointed wardrobe should contain at least one cape, and a new mode that is in double-breasted style may be made with or without a centre-seam. The hood is removable, and a Medici-flare or Aiglon collar may be worn. The cape which is of the military order, will develop well in the new double-faced materials, as well as in heavy cloth and rough goods; plain or plaid silk may be used to line the hood.

There is good style in a bodice with a left side-front closing and perfectly smooth back. An underfolded plait laid in each front gives a becoming blouse effect.

Top garments of all lengths are fashionable, from the short jaunty Eton jacket to the full-length coat. An attractive example of the former with blousing double-breasted fronts may be made with or without yoke facings. Velvet and cloth are alike suitable for developing the mode, which is especially becoming to slight figures.

The back of a new coat reaching below the hips is shaped in military style, while the fronts are double-breasted and semi-fitted.

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