Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Edwardian Era Ladies' Dresses - October 1904 The Delineator

Edwardian Era Ladies' Dresses - October 1904 The Delineator

Left - Waist 7896 is here shown with Skirt 7869, in cafe au lait voile with self ruffles and darker velvet, and with pendants and lace banding on the waist.
Right - White English embroidery provides stylish trimming for the shirt-waist of this pretty frock of plum-bloom nun's-veiling; the Skirt is 7910 and the Waist is 7895.

7896 - Ladies' Tucked or Gathered Waist - The popular back closing distinguishes the waist shown on the opposite page, in white mistral associated with Venise all-over lace. The shallow yoke in fancy outline is a pleasing feature, but is not always employed. The mode may be tucked or gathered at the front and back, and bloused all around or only at the front, and a standing collar is worn. Gathers or tucks may be introduced at the top of the sleeves, which are in full length with plain or pointed cuffs, or in three-quarter length. Body and sleeve linings are included, but need not be used, and a crush girdle-belt forms a stylish finish for the waist.

Pale-blue messaline with Limerick all-over would make a dressy waist. Crepe de Chine, messlinette, veiling, Liberty satin, voile, crepe de Paris and all soft fabrics are suitable for reproducing the mode, and a pretty embroidered design may be introduced on the yoke and cuffs.

7869 - Ladies' Seven-Gored Skirt - This graceful skirt of "1830" design is depicted in oyster-white albatross with silk folds in graduated widths, and with frills of lace. Seven gores are employed in its construction, and tucks or shirrings to any yoke depth may control the fulness at the top. When the tucks are used, a narrow space at the front is left plain in panel effect and an inverted box-plait is formed at the back. Provision is made for a long or medium sweep as well as for round length, and six yards is the measurement given the lower edge in the medium sizes. The use of the seven-gored foundation skirt is a matter of preference.

All the thin, soft, woollen materials, such as nun's-veiling, batiste, voile, lace etamine, canvas, crepe de Chine cloth and cashmere, and pliable silks, gauzes and washable fabrics are recommended.

7910 - Ladies' Skirt - Groups of "nun" tucks ornament the skirt here portrayed, which is one of the "1830" modes, and is shown in almond-green nun's-veiling. The upper portion is shaped by seven gores, tucked, shirred or gathered at the top, and has three tucks at the lower edge. A straight flounce, also displaying tucks, lengthens the mode, and is attached to the upper portion by gathers. Round and short round lengths are given, and in the medium sizes the lower edge measures about six yards and one-half. A foundation skirt composed of five gores may be used or not.

A skirt of this type in tan or brown voile will be pretty with a waist of the same material, similarly tucked. Mistral, eolienne, cashmere, crepe de Chine cloth, foulard, cheviot, etamine, wool crepe, serge, soft taffeta and satin are adaptable, and taffeta is generally employed for the foundation skirt.

7895 - Ladies' Shirt-Waist - An exceptionally pretty shirt-waist is here pictured in ivory-white crepe de Chine, associated with Irish crochet lace. Shirrings in yoke or epaulette effect on the shoulders form the principal elaboration. A wide box-plait is simulated at the centre of the front, and the waist is bloused all around or only at the front, to suit the figure. A narrow neck-band supports the standing collar, and a silk or leather belt is worn. The full sleeves, which are shirred at the top, extend to the wrist or terminate just below the elbow, in the formed case deep cuff facings being added to the linings. A body lining is supplied for use when desired.

Corn-colored messaline may be trimmed with inset motifs of heavy lace, and hand-embroidery will be effective on white chiffon broadcloth or Liberty satin. Chiffon cloth, silk mousseline, eolienne, silk mull, chiffon velvet, messlinette and fancy silks will be satisfactory for developing the mode. White peau de cygne would make an attractive waist and might be associated with arabe lace, and lansdowne and louisine suggest pretty reproductions.

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