Monday, December 31, 2012

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - October 1904 The Delineator

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - October 1904 The Delineator

Fig 1 - A dressy toilette, combining coat No. 7871 and skirt No. 7887, is here pictured in champagne chiffon broadcloth trimmed with achou braid and buttons.

Fig 2 - This fashionable mode unites jacket No. 7901 and skirt No. 7888 in coq de roche crepe de chine cloth, finished with machine stitching and buttons.

7871 - Ladies' Blouse Coat or Jacket - Oyster-white eolienne with reliefs of myrtle-green velvet, lace and Louis XVI buttons, and black chiffon cloth with lace are shown in the illustrations on page 488. The full back and fronts are supported by a lining, and shirrings are introduced at the shoulder and waist-line. The coat blouses stylishly over a girdle with a deep or shallow point at the front. A rolling collar affords neck completion. Fancy cuffs may adorn the full sleeves, which are shirred in pointed effect at the top and made over two-seam linings faced to form deep cuffs, or cut off for three-quarter length. Epaulette straps and a Directoire poplum, with or without pocket-laps, may be employed.

Brocaded silk or velvet, damasse, miroir velvet, satin broche and ottoman are all desirable.

7887 - Ladies' Seven-Gored Directoire Skirt - The revival of the Directoire modes brings the petticoat effect in skirts again into prominence, and the one here illustrated in a combination of heavy brocaded and plain silk, as well as in oyster-white crepe de Chine, is of this type. Seven gores give shaping to the skirt, which may be gathered or shirred all around or only at the sides and back, the front being left plain in panel effect. It falls with graceful fulness in frou-frou or regulation long or medium sweep or round length. A measurement of about five yards and one-half is allowed the lower edge in the medium sizes, and the pattern includes a five-gored foundation skirt for use when desired.

Nun's-veiling, peau de cygne and heavy satins are suitable.

7901 - Ladies' Tucked Blouse Eton Jacket - The blouse modes seem rather to increase than to diminish in favor, and whether this effect be given all around or only at the front is left to the discretion of the wearer in the mode here portrayed. Black taffeta and tan kersey are represented, with lace for contrast. Revers are formed by turning back the fronts, which are tucked to correspond with the back, and lap in double-breasted fashion when closed. Epaulette caps are added, if becoming, and a wide belt conceals the joining of the Directoire skirt in short three-quarter and short hip lengths and with or without revers. The sleeves are designed for full or three-quarter length. Flaring cuffs are provided, and two-seam linings give support.

Chiffon velours, broadcloth, crepe de Chine cloth and Melrose suiting are suggested.

7888 - Ladies' Skirt - Silk-and-wool crepe de Paris of a wood-brown tint was selected for making the skirt falling in medium sweep, and blue cheviot was used for the ones in round and short round lengths. The upper portion is formed of a yoke of circular shaping, in single, double or triple effect, while the lower part consists of seven gores laid in side plaits. At the front and back, box-plaits that may extend to the belt or only to the lower edge of the yoke are arranged. Smooth adjustment is given about the hips, and the lower edge in the medium sizes measures about six yards with the plaits drawn out. This mode is designated as the "Kilt-Plaited Flounce Skirt," and is to be made with or without the five-gored foundation skirt.

Crepe de Chine cloth in a champagne or ecru tint will be dressy made with a medium sweep, and blue serge in short length is suggested for wear with shirt-waists and a jacket of the serge.

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