1. Dark-blue braid felt, blue velvet and shaded blue coq feathers.
2. Pale-gray furry felt, persian band and felt bow.
3. White taffeta silk cords, white coq feathers and persian braid ornaments.
4. Black and white mixed felt braid, black velvet bow and breasts.
5. Felt braid in mixed browns, light-brown taffeta and brown wing.
1. Dark and light blue felt braid and light-blue silk braid.
2. "Cachou" brown silk felt, autumn leaves and berries, brown satin ribbon.
3. White lace and tulle over white French felt, white wings.
4. Mixed gray and black chenille braid, satin ribbon in two shades of gray.
5. Tufted gray taffeta, black wings.
Modish Millinery
With illustrations of smart tailored hats in a variety of shapes
One is bewildered by the variety of the season's hats, and in the shapes particularly is ingenuity displayed. Often it is merely the odd form of the brim that gives distinction to a model, which may be simply trimmed. Crowns are receiving their share of attention this season, and the newest hats show them extremely high, a decided change from the flat-topped hats that have been in favor recently. The Louis XVI and Directoire shapes are the season's novelties, and they are fitting accompaniments to the gowns of the period. The effect of the high crown is considerably modified in some models by folds and bands of ribbon or tulle puffings or ruchings, a trimming that will undoubtedly have great popularity. With some of these pcturesque hats broad ribbon or tulle strings are tied beneath the chin at a little to the left side, as in stage-coach days; to the youthful wearer the effect is quite becoming.
A huge bird of paradise with plumage shading through brown to orange adorns a Directoire model of "cachou" brown velvet. Around the high crown are folds of taffeta in the same shade, and the brim is faced with shirred taffeta. At the left side sweeping toward the back is the paradise bird. This hat is intended to accompany a gown of velvet in the same shade, and the same orange tone should appear in the trimming.
A favorite shape is the medium-sized capeline with slightly drooping brim and high crown, and its martest trimming is a puffing of taffeta or velvet around the crown, and perhaps a paradise feather at the left side. The paradise, by the way, is this season's most fashionable hat trimming, but its popularity is lessened by its cost, which will not permit its general use.
A modified Louis XVI hat is of champagne velvet, with three bands of dull-green velvet wound about the high crown and a garland of exquisitely shaded pink velvet roses and foliage arranged on the wide brim. At the left side, where the brim flares high, is a huge rosette of the green velvet having a jewelled centre, and tiny buds hanging from tendrils fall over on the hair from beneath the rosette. In shades of green this model would be equally effective, with pink blossoms as a relief note, and additional beauty might be achieved by softly draping the wide brim with a veil of green gauze having a lace edge, and arranging it in cascade fashion at the back.
Vivid colors and rather startling blends have been the striking feature in fashionable headgear during the Summer, and many of the early Autumn modes carry out this idea. Framboise (a raspberry pink), coq de roche (reddish orange), Victorian or "bottle" green, mauve, "cachou" brown and purple in all its tones are the colors used in the most successful creations.
Brown is perhaps enjoying the greatest popularity, and is a good background for brighter tints. An attractive bronze-brown velvet hat is trimmed around the high crown with a torsade of tulle made of several breadths of the material in different shades of brown, and at the left side a natural-tinted paradise bird sweeps gracefully over the crown and flared brim.
A charming hat of similar shape was of black velvet, and about the crown there were two plaitings of taffeta in old rose, while a bunch of roses in dull-tones pinks was arranged at the left side, apparently securing the end of an ostrich plume in shaded pink that fell over the flared brim on the hair. This suggestion would be extremely modish carried out in brown and coq de roche or in dark and light green.
The new turbans show the crown quite distinct from the brim, and in some instances they suggest the modified walking hat. Velvet, both draped and shirred, is used to fashion these models, and breasts, quills, rosettes and coq plumes provide the trimming.
The tricorne made of velvet with the brim of shirred silk is smart for the walking costume. To be correct, it must match the costume in color, or at least form a harmonizing contrast. A novelty in the tricorne is made of changeable taffeta shirred over the frame; a huge rosette of the silk or of velvet in the predominating shade shows an enamelled or metal button centre at the left side, holding up the edge of the brim. Another example may have two rosettes, one at each indentation of the brim, and a wide bow arranged against the rolled-up brim at the back would add an attractive note. These silk hats will be smart in shaded reds, browns, blues and greens.
The fur felts of last season have given way to those of soft, silky appearance which so much resemble velvet, and they lend themselves admirably to the new shapes. Chenille braids, too, are used in hats for general wear, and some pelasing mixtures are shown.
The flat, oval and circular crowns of the picture hats are this season higher than they were, and ostrich tips arranged all around and against the crown is a favorite mode of trimming. A long plume or the nodding Prince of Wales tips are sometimes at the left side, where the wide brim is turned up straight against the crown. An all-black velvet hat of this type, the Directoire, is adorned with short black tips around the crown, and the Prince of Wales plumes at the left side are black, while a white paradise aigrette rises from the midst of the plumes and falls over to the edge of the brim at the back. Shirred black tulle over white taffeta forms the brim facing of this exceedingly pretty hat. This idea expressed in a color, or in several shades of one color would be attractive, especially when made to accompany a gown in which the shades were carried out.
Ribbons in two contrasting shades trim some of the smartest tailored hats. "Cachou" and marron browns are blended in a new round hat, which is made of heavy cords of taffeta grouped in rows of three. Ribbon in soft brown tones is arranged around the broad, flat crown in two rows of plaiting, and at each side there is a huge rosette of deep=brown ribbon with a centre of the "cachou" shade and finished with a gold-button ornament. Breasts in the two browns lie flat against the brim facing, and at the back a wide bow falls on the hair. Dark blue and green, two shades of red, or black and white will be equally attractive.
Toques made of velvet leaves and fruit are modish. A charming example is of vine leaves and muscatel grapes in the same shade of green. Dark-green tulle is softly draped about the brim of the toque, and the leaves and fruit are lightly disposed over it. Deep-purple grapes and green leaves are another suggestion for this hat, which is appropriate for wear with the smartly tailored street costume.
A tricorne of white furry felt is trimmed with Prince of Wales tips in pale yellow shading to deep orange, and velvet in the deep shade. The crown is of medium height, and the brim shows greater breadth in front than the tricorne of last season. A narrow fold of the velvet encircles the crown, and in each indentation of the brim there is a rosette of the velvet, while the ostrich tips are arranged at the left side of the front.
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