Friday, December 6, 2013

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - October 1906 The Delineator

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - October 1906 The Delineator

Fig 1 - This stylish street frock, combining blouse-waist No. 9532 and skirt No. 9536 is pictured in chiffon broadcloth with accessories of velvet and lace.

Fig 2 - Tucked shirt-waist No. 9542 in checked louisine with lace, and skirt No. 9575 in Panama cloth with braid trimming, are here united.

9532 - Ladies' Tucked Blouse-Waist, closed at the back, with removable chemisette, full-length or shorter sleeves, with or without the plastron. Lace and handwork play quite as important a part in the making of waists for Autumn as they did in those for Summer. Cashmere voile with baby Irish all-over and silk were combined in one development of this dressy waist, while French henrietta with hand embroidery were utilized in the other. The blouse is mounted on a lining and the wide tucks on the shoulder are stitched to yoke depth in the front, the narrow ones at the back being arranged in a group at each side of the closing. The upper edge is cut out slightly at the back and much deeper in front to disclose the removable chemisette of lace or sheer material which is finished with a standing collar. A plastron is a novel feature but it is not always used, and the plain space at the front affords an opportunity for hand embroidery. The short sleeves have groups of tucks above the elbow where reversed cuffs are added, or, when in full length, a cuff facing of lace finished in round outline or with point extending over the hand. The slight fulness at the lower edge is drawn toward the centre of the back, and a crush silk belt affords a dainty waist finish. All soft woollens and silks are adaptable.

9536 - Ladies' Eleven-Gored Skirt, in medium sweep, round or short round length, with side-plaited extensions at the back edge of the front and side gores, and an inverted box-plait at the back. A modish skirt is here pictured in English cashmere with silk pipings, and in chiffon broadcloth. Eleven gores, narrow at the top, are used in the construction, which provides a stylish smoothness over the hips. The skirt is cut in fancy outline where it heads three forward-turning plaits that are laid in extra widths allowed on the back edges of the gores. These extensions are in flounce depth at the front, becoming much deeper on the sides until they reach nearly to the belt at each side of an underfolded plait at the back. Medium sweep, round and short round lengths are allowed, and the skirt measures about six yards and one-fourth in the medium sizes with the plaits drawn out. Serge, prunella, Scotch tweed, the fancy suitings, French voile and poplin, nun's veiling, taffeta, moire, faille, burlingham and shantung are suitable for development.

9542 - Ladies' Tucked Shirt-Waist, with or without the body lining. An attractive design for a plain shirt-waist is here illustrated in a dainty make-up of French flannel with ornamental buttons and an embroidered turn-over of sheer goods, and also in butcher's linen. Three short tucks are stitched in the upper part of each blousing front, and two at each side of the centre of the back above the waist-line. The seamless yoke tops the blouse, which is overlapped by a tab extension at the back and at each side of the simulated box-plait that marks the front closing. Neck completion is afforded by the regulation band for wear with a plain standing collar or with one having turn-overs. A body lining is provided for use when desired and the slight fullness at the waistline is drawn in by gathers and caught to the lining or to a stay underneath. The bishop sleeves have deep or shallow cuffs, and are adjusted into the armholes with gathers. The mode is suitable for development in Irish and Japanese linen, madras, embroidered wash voile, Victoria lawn, pongee, shantung, albatross, henrietta and cashmere. The design is especially desirable for a tailor finish and to be worn with a coat suit of mannish tweed, in walking length which clears the ground easily.

9575 - Ladies' Thirteen-Gored Skirt, in medium sweep, round or short round length, with a tuck at each side seam and an inverted box-plait or in habit style at the back, with or without the trimming tabs. There is a great demand for skirt designs that fit closely at the top. Chiffon broadcloth was used in the development of this modish skirt in one view, prunella cloth in another and serge with silk in the third. Thirteen gores were used in shaping the garment and a tuck conceals each side seam. The wide gores are separated by narrow ones that are sometimes cut from contrasting material, and which may support rounding trimming tabs applied at the foot as well as at the top when fancied. The back is fashioned in habit style, if becoming, or, if preferred, it may have an inverted box-plait. Medium sweep, round and short round lengths are provided, and the lower edge measurement is about four yards and three-fourths in the medium sizes. Suitable development may be had in melton, Scotch tweed, English suiting, fancy broadcloth, chiffon panama, French poplin, Venetian, undressed worsted, vicuna, cashmere suiting and taffeta.

Sunday, July 14, 2013

Edwardian Ladies' Headwear - November 1901 The Delineator

Edwardian Ladies' Headwear - November 1901 The Delineator

Description of Millinery Plates
No 1 - This shows one of the new soft beaver felts, in blue. The crown is indented and the brim, which is faced and edged with a shirring of harmonizing silk, is artistically bent. The back of the brim is folded into a box-plait resting against the hair and held in shape by two jet cabochons. The only other trimming is a long black ostrich plume disposed over the left side and a short ostrich tip curling to the right, another cabochon joining them in the front.

No 2 - A dark-gray beaver felt is used in this new design, the crown and brim being bent into becoming curves. The double brim has the under side draped with scarlet velvet and edged with soft gray and white breasts which encircle it. Similar breasts encircle the crown, and the bandeau on the left side has a chon of the velvet.

No 3 - A stylish yet useful hat is illustrated in this dull brown felt, the trimming consisting of a soft drapery of fancy dotted silk around the crown, caught into a looped chon at the left side. Two quills give a jaunty air, and a steel disk ornaments the centre of the chon. A narrow bandeau raises the hat slightly at the left side and is trimmed with loops of velvet ribbon to match the felt.

No 4 - A model for dressy afternoon or evening wear is shown here and is a good example of the new shape which rolls high on each side. The crown is covered with pale-green Louisine silk shirred on cords and the brim draped with Irish lace. Straps of deep-green velvet are brought up on each side of the brim and caught with Strasse buckles. Velvet bows on top complete the trimming.