Edwardian Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1902 The Delineator
Fashions of Today
Tucks en bayadere are stylish and are especially adapted to the soft silks and woollens used for dress gowns. The new tucked bodice is made additionally attractive by the drop-shoulder efect. The closing is made at the left side, and the mode may be in low-necked style with elbow sleeves, if preferred.
A skirt to accompany the bodice described above is in habit back style and consists of a five-gored foundation skirt lengthened by a circular flounce, and a tucked circular skirt formed of a yoke, centre section and flounce. Any trimming may be applied between the tucks.
The effect of horizontal tucks is achieved in a waist by applying two band-frills below the bust, a similar frill following the lower outline of the drop-shoulder yoke, which may be of lace or other contrasting material. The neck may be in high or Dutch or "1830" low style, and the sleeves, distinguished by band-frills, may be in full or three-quarter length. This mode will be charming for a slight, youthful figure and suggests a combination of silk or soft woollen material and all-over lace.
Modish jackets are characterized by the slot-seam effect, and one of the newest designs, wherein this is a conspicuous feature, may be developed in cloth, velvet, corduroy or any of the heavy, rough goods and is in blouse Eton style with bishop or coat sleeves and with or without the peplum.
The smartest top garments are shaped upon lines suggesting the kimono or Monte Carlo coats, and a design that may be in regulation or short three-quarter length has a gored circular back and flowing or bishop sleeves. An ornamentation of stitched straps may be used. A wide turn-over collar finishes the neck, and the fronts roll back in revers. The mode is appropriate for development in cloth, velvet, and silk.
The popularity of plaid fabrics this season has brought out many designs in waists. A new shirt-waist has a slightly fulled back and fronts that suggest the "Gibson" shaping, the closing to be made in regulation or Duchess style and with a plain or Roman collar and ornamental straps. Plaid goods cut bias will lend itself admirably to this mode, while striped or plaid fabrics used straight and in bayadere effect are also suitable.
The popularity of the two-piece costume has, if possible, increased, and an attractive tucked mode consists of a blouse jacket, with a plain peplum or six or fewer peplum tabs, and a seven=gored flare skirt having an inverted box-plait at the back. Both smooth and rough faced goods may be used for this stylish design, and briad and buttons will provide decoration, though machine-stitching may be used.
A skirt of unusual beauty, suitable for development in thin or soft goods, consists of a five-gored foundation skirt and a circular skirt with shirrings extending all around or terminating in front to produce a panel effect. A graceful frou-frou marks the lower edge of this skirt, and a simple ornamentation of applique lace banding is suggested.
Norfolk jackets are among the season's favorite modes, and a stylish example is in double-breasted Eton style to be made with two strap-plaits on the front and two or three on the back. The use of the peplum is optional.
A skirt that would suitably accompany the jacket just described is of nine-gored flare shaping and may have slot, strapped or regular seams, with the back in habit style or with an inverted box-plait. Straight-around, instep or outing length may be used, and the facing may be omitted.
The shirt-waist costume is quite as essential in Winter as in Summer. A new design that suggests a development in metal velvets, corduroy or plain goods consists of a strapped shirt-waist and a nine-gored flare skirt with habit back to be in medium sweep or dip round length and with three or fewer straps extending about the skirt or temrinating at the side-front seams. Contrasting material used for the straps lends distinction to the mode, and fancy buttons may supply ornamentation.
An attractive and practical article of lingerie is a Princess slip or corset-cover and petticoat-skirt in one. It may be in full length with a circular flounce having a slight sweep or in dip round length, or with a gathered flounce and in under-skirt length. The neck may be high or in Dutch or low round style, or cut straight-around at the top and the waist held in place over the shoulders by ribbons. Wash silks, nainsook, fine cambric, dimity and long-cloth are the materials used for dainty under garments, and fine Swiss embroidery or wash lace and ribbon is the correct trimming.
A five-gored petticoat-skirt is lengthened by a dust ruffle and has a gathered flounce, overlapped by a circular flounce with or without a border ruffle, as its distinguishing feature.
For evening wear the wrap par excellence is the cape, and the Red-Riding Hood or Irish peasant mode is again popular. It may be made in full or automobile length, with three or fewer capes or a hood. A flare collar or standing band may complete the neck. Velvet and cloth are alike suitable for developing the mode, and fur or silk may be employed for the lining.
A pretty tea-gown or wrapper is essential to the complete wardrobe. A new example is made in drop-shoulder effect, with high or Dutch round neck, and with or without the graduated circular flounce from beneath which the skirt should be cut away. The sleeves may be in full-length or three-quarter bishop style. Silk, cashmere and other soft fabrics, associated with all-over lace and velvet ribbon for contrast, may be satisfactorily used.