Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - June 1903 The Delineator


Edwardian Era Fashion Plate - June 1903 The Delineator

Styles for the Month
Descriptins of Ladies' Figures

Figure 193H - Ladies' Shirt-Waist Costume
The costume of one material is far in advance of the odd shirt-waist and skirt, in feminine favor, and some exquisite modes are offered. The one at this figure is pictured in white pique, smartly contrasted with red linen, which supplies a striking background for the antique lace insertion. A sailor collar finishes the open neck of the shirt-waist, and a removable shield of antique all-over is topped by a standing collar of insertion. The shirt-waist is plain at the back, gathers regulating the fulness at the waist-line, and the front pouches modishly, a duchess closing being used. Full-length bishop sleeves are completed by wristbands of the red linen covered with lace. A red silk tie and linen belt are added.

The skirt falls gracefully in a medium sweep, five gores being employed in its construction, and a graduated, circular flounce, headed by a band of lace over red, increases the flare at the lower edge. An inverted box-plait is formed at the back, and provision is also made for dip or round length.

Hand embroidery would be effectve on the sailor collar, shield and wristbands of a brown linen costume, and might also appear on the skirt, heading the flounce. Bands of Persian embroidery may be used on white serge or canvas. Knickerbocker and novelty linen suitings, gingham, chambray, plumetis and mercerized materials are adapted to the design.

Figure 194H - Ladies' Shirt-Waist and Skirt
Hand embroidery adorns the toilette exhibited at this figure in brown linen. The skirt is of five-gored formation, with backward-turning tucks at the sides stitched to flounce depth, and the front-gore extending in a yoke with habit back. An inverted box-plait is arranged below the yoke, and the skirt shows the fashionable dip at the back, but may be shortened to round or instep length.

The embroidered design is repeated in the shirt-waist, which is in double-breasted style, two tucks at each side adding to the decoratve effect, and the back is also tucked. A narrow band finishes the neck and supports the collar, a fold of ecru linen at the top provides becoming contrast. Embroidery also ornaments the wristbands which complete the bishop sleeves. Brown ribbon affords an attractive waist finish and is simply knotted at the left side.

Linen in white or colors is especially appropriate for embroidering, and hand-work in shaded tones is effective. Summer-weight broadcloth would be handsome with a braided design in place of the embroidery and the pattern for both shirt-waist and skirt might be used for plain gingham, batiste, lawn, chambray, taffeta, Louisine, peau de soie, peau de crepe and light cloths.






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