1. Black felt, velvet and ostrich tips
2. Stiff felt sailor, maline, velvet, wings and buckle at the back
3. Made of heavy braid, with breast, velvet and maline
4. Felt, fancy buckle, chiffon velvet and peacock feathers
5. White silk beaver, with black tulle and short ostrich tips
6. Rough dark straw, with ribbons and fancy quills
1. Black felt, with white chiffon and white wings
2. Silk beaver, brown fur and louisine ribbon
3. Stiff felt, fancy plaid ribbon wired at the side
4. Felt, velvet ribbon, tulle, shaded Bird of Paradise
5. White felt, wings, satin ribbon and choux of white velvet
6. Tam-o'-Shanter shape, wings, chiffon and velvet
The Millinery of Early Autumn
The exhibits of Autumn millinery make an important feature of the hat meant for wear with morning frocks. This is quite natural since this is always the one first selected by women who dress smartly. They realize that the hat may mar as well as make their whole appearance, and appreciate the need for its harmonious relation to the gown with which it is worn.
The new morning hat is a bit severe, but its lines are nevertheless very becoming. It makes no attempt at dressy effects, and ribbons tied in stiff bows and loops, quills and wings are its chief ornaments. Buckles are used, made of braid or covered with cloth or velvet, and one sees pompons of coq feathers set in the cahe-peigne. The ready-to-wear morning hat is shown this season in such variety that there are comparatively few duplicates.
The shapes are smaller, on the average, than they have been, and they present a more regular contour both on the head and in the hand. There is plenty of diversity in the matter of crowns. In some hats the crown is less than an inch in height; the brim turns up from it sharply all round, (forming a ring that fits the head), and then curls over and outward like the hollowed crest of a wave. One sees also saucer and bowl shaped crowns, and the mushroom shape that is so becoming to round faces. Yet another hat shows a crown fully three inches high and shaped much like the masculine high hat. This hat is shown in plain felt and in silk-finished beaver.
Newest of all, and very smart upon the head that can wear it, is a small toque with its flat oval crown bent inward through the centre. It is known as the Scottish bonnet because of its strong resemblance to the Highlander's head dress. This shape is particularly popular for hats covered with caracul, Persian lamb or sealskin. The felt hats pressed into this shape have the close-fitting brim bound with a braid that matches that which trims the morning frock with which it is worn; or it is covered with velvet shaped to fit smoothly. A stiff, broom-shaped pompon, known as the aigrette officier, is set smartly at the left and well toward the front. Women who find the Scottish bonnet too narrow at the sides to be becoming soften its severe lines with breasts and wings.
Plumage hats are smart both for morning and for afternoon wear; the distinction between the two appears in the coloring and also in the quality of the plumage. They come in Scottish bonnet, and in toque and turban shapes. The plumage, with which they are completely covered, consists of the short scale-like feathers one sees on the throat and breasts of choice barnyard fowls, pheasants and other game birds. Sometimes they are dyed to a desired color, but most of them show the natural coloring. The smartest are trimmed at the left side with the tail feathers of the bird, reaching backward and downward after the manner of a Paradise plume.
Fur hats to match the muff and neck-piece will be worn quite extensively. These hats require very little trimming. A falling tip or two, or a fine gardenia with a bud and a leaf spray, are the only ornaments on the plainer hats. The richer ones show an aigrette rising from a crescent of mock jewels.
Speaking generally, the dressy hats used for calling and for driving are marked by a rather low crown and a brim that is no longer bent and tortured into complicated curves and angles. The cache-peigne is somewhat lower than last season, but it continues strong enough to tilt the hat to a becoming angle. It is covered with loops of velvet ribbon mingled with soft choux of chiffon. A few imported hats show triangular pieces of velvet and chiffon laid together and folded in jabot effect over the cache-peigne and resting upon the back hair. A buckle or a jewelled clasp crosses the middle of the jabot and holds it down.
Late flowers and Autumn leaves, both closely copying nature's glorious coloring, are seen on dressy hats. They are made of velvet and of satin, and owing to their vivid coloring are rarely used en masse. That it requires an artist's hand to place these lovely flowers to best advantage is seen in a Paris model of brown velvet, from whose soft folds glowing nasturtium blooms peep out with striking effect. Fruits are also used on the new hats. Cherries range in color from creamy white to warm black. Grapes are semi-transparent, and shine in pale green, in Catawba red, in rosy purple, and in frosted blue.
Hand-made hats are in vogue, and the dressiest are those made entirely of curled ostrich trimming. They are finished with drooping tips, or with Paradise plumes. This style hat is very pretty for theatre use, since the feather trimming may be obtained in delicate tints. One in pale pink with tips showing white at the base and deepening into pink toward the head, would be very charming and thoroughly correct.
A most attractive hat recently imported is in the shape Eugenie always favored. It has a broad, shallow crown, and the brim follows the graceful lines familiar to those who can recall the Second Empire styles. It is covered with black ostrich trimming of high grade; and nestling in the curves of the brim lie sprays of currants, wonderfully lifelike, and shading from white to the vivid red of the natural fruit. Long streamers of black velvet hang down behind, to be brought forward and loosely tied at the will of the wearer.
Among the hats suitable for semi-dress one finds shapes of white felt with colored under brims, and others showing touches of the fashionable Tartan plaids in their trimming. Wings and breasts are used, natural ones and also factory made, and large enough to hide the hat to which they are affixed. Quills, stiff and also trailing, continue in vogue.
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